DESCRIEREA TRASEULUI /ROUTE DESCRIPTION
In urma cu 20 de ani, Mihai Mandreanu si-a dorit sa realizeze un traseu destinat cataratorilor de top care isi doresc o mare provocare. Asa cum el insusi sustine, nu e vorba de actiunea unui catarator foarte bun ci de aceea a unui constructor foarte bun. Caruciorul cu Rotile este un traseu de artificial deschis de sus in jos, cu o singura repetare, dupa premiera. Prima lungime de 50m, de la bolovan direct in sus, a cazut cu tot cu asigurari la un an de la amenajarea traseului. Asadar a fost nevoie sa cautam si sa gasim o noua alternativa pentru lungimile de inceput.
La ultimul rapel este nevoie de corzi de 60m. Traseul a fost facut integral de o echipa de francezi in momentul cand placa de intrare inca nu cazuse. Gradul de dificultate acordat de ei traseului Caruciorul cu rotile a fost de 8+, cu pasaje de A2,3 si 4 in succesiunea celor trei surplombe.
La momentul de inceput al proiectului nostru se putea intra din Memorial fara probleme. Traseul nu este o premiera ci mai degraba un traseu amenajat in care s-a intrat in trecut fie din Memorial, fie din Albastra, fie din Sperantei, fie de sus din Creasta Vaii Albe.
20 years ago, Mihai Mandreanu wanted to create a route for top climbers who wanted a great challenge. As he himself claims, it is not the action of a very good climber but that of a very good builder. The Wheelchair is an artificial route open from top to bottom, with a single repetition, after the premiere. The first length of 50m, from the boulder directly upwards, fell toghether with the bolts one year after the arrangement of the route. So we needed to look for and find a new alternative for the starting lengths. At the last booster, 60m ropes are needed. The route was sent entirely by a team of Frenchmen when the entrance plate had not yet fallen. The degree of difficulty given by them to the route The wheelchair was 8+, with passages of A2,3 and 4 in the succession of the three overhangs. At the beginning of our project you could enter the route from the “Memorial” route without any problems. The route is not a premiere but rather an arranged route that was approached in the past either from the Memorial, or from “Albastra” route, or from “Sperantei” route, or from above from the White Valley Ridge.
ACCES SI RETRAGERE
RUTA ACCES
De la Refugiul Costila se merge pe poteca de Brana Aeriana. Se vor trece 2 valcele, apoi se merge pe o mica crestulita pana la locul “La Panda”. Daca pe drum exista un lant inseamna ca s-a ajuns prea sus, si trebuie coborat 20 m. De la locul “La Panda” se face stanga pe o potecuta ingusta si expusa care conduce in Circurile Vaii Albe. Drumul continua in sus spre Circul 1, pana la bolovanul mare de sub perete.
Ruta retragere: Se iese in Creasta Vaii Albe si se coboara pe creasta catre Brana Aeriana. Pe parcurs exista mai multe ancore mecanice rosii care pot fi folosite pentru rapel in caz de oboseala sau vreme nefavorabila. Se traverseaza Brana Aeriana (ce are pe tot parcursul ei cablu metalic), se coboara apoi intr-un valcel, pe care se continua pana la finalul lui, se face stanga, se intra in alt vacel pe care se coboara cu ajutorul unor lanturi. Dupa ce se termina lanturile se mai coboara 50 m, apoi se tine potecuta de pe crestulita din dreapta. Se traverseaza la dreapta pe o brana (pe deasupra Peretelui Valcelului Stancos), apoi se cobora un fel de valcel cu lant pentru a ajunge inapoi la locul “La Panda”. De acolo se merge 20 de minute inapoi pana la Refugiu.
From the Costila Refuge you go on the Brana Aeriana path. You will cross 2 small valleys, then go on a small ridge to the place “La Panda”. If there is a chain on the road it means that you have reached too high, and you have to go down 20 m. From the place “La Panda” turn left on a narrow and exposed path that leads to the White Valley Circuses. The road continues up to Circus 1, to the large boulder under the wall.
Exit route: Exit at the White Valley Ridge and descend the ridge to Brana Aeriana. Along the way there are several red mechanical anchors that can be used for rappel in case of fatigue or bad weather. You cross Brana Aeriana (which has a metal cable throughout it), then descend into a small valley, which you continue to its end, turn left, enter another small valley on which you descend with the help of chains. After finishing the chains, go down another 50 m, then keep the path on the ridge on the right. Cross to the right on a ramp (above the Rocky Walls Wall), then go down a kind of chain small valley to get back to the place “La Panda”. From there it is a 20 minute walk back to the Refuge.
